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UNDERSTANDING AVANT-GARDE

This term can be interpreted in many different ways, this editorial is one such interpretation. From the world of music, fine arts and film, there is a movement within each which is noticeably on the outside of typical trends. Fashion is no different.

Avant-Garde is described as new and experimental ideas and methods. This can also be used as a way to describe ones self, a mindset. An individual who doesn't see or notice trends, someone who is on their own path. This way of thinking and existing is seen in some of the worlds most influential designers - Yohji Yamamoto, Rick Owens, Rei Kawakubo, Junja Watanabe and so on..

When it comes to music, the techno scene in particular and the rise of electronic music is often associated with avant-gardism.  Perhaps this is why techno and fashion work so well together, especially as a score for a new season runway event.  The collab between Rick Owens and Black Asteroid to give one such example. 

Image Credit: Black Asteroid Official Twitter

 Image Credit: Black Asteroid Official Twitter

Like anything, over time like the Avant-Garde Movement has evolved and split into many different sub categories, and sub cultures.  No matter the category black is the definitive colour of avant-garde as black and dark shades serve to emphasise the uncovered skin in contrast to the clothing. 

Lastly embraces two different areas of this Movement - Contemporary & Street

 

CONTEMPORY AVANT-GARDE //

This is where you see varying textures, structure, balance, sophisticated angles and lots and lots of layering. Many avant-garde garments are designed with layering in mind—it’s integral to the aesthetic. It also embraces a experimental and gender neutral approach. The designers I work with use a construction process aimed at crafting garments eloquently suitable for both men and women. 

Image D:HYGEN AW 20-21 Forthcoming Collection

 Image D:HYGEN AW 20-21 Forthcoming Collection

 

Image Devoa Forthcoming AW 20-21 Collection

Image Devoa Forthcoming AW 20-21 Collection

 

STREET AVANT-GARDE //

Black is without a doubt the defining color of avant-garde fashion. Dark fashion, or Darkwear as it is sometimes called, is also now seen in the sub-category of Street Avant-Garde. Exactly as the name suggests, we are now seeing a growing popularity within the underground community of redefined "Streetwear" pieces that are not only stylish but versatile. This is a more multifunctional way to embrace avant-garde fashion layering volumized, oversized pieces with leather and statement jewellery. 

Image AF ARTEFACT Forthcoming AW 20-21 Collection

 Image AF ARTEFACT Forthcoming AW 20-21 Collection

 

Image Wizzard Japan Forthcoming AW 20-21 Collection

 Image Wizzard Japan Forthcoming AW 20-21 Collection

 

When it comes to understanding the avant-garde movement in terms of fashion it is important to treat it as an entire look, made up of individual pieces. These pieces are not at all limited to one particular designer, but more about the pieces themselves complimenting and layering effectively.  This holistic approach is more important within the avant-garde movement than in any other sub-genre.

 

Have a question?  Or just want to know more about anything covered in this editorial, feel free to hit me a comment below!  Lets talk fashion!

 


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